A brief guide on how to visit four buildings that are enlisted as UNESCO World Heritage “Mudéjar Archtecture of Aragon” in Teruel, Spain. The travel tips in the article can help traveler save their time and enjoy the visiting.
How to reach Teruel
When we lived in Zaragoza, we decided to spend a weekend in Valencia. Travelling by train, we stopped halfway to visit Teruel. Spending a morning in Teruel allowed us to admire its architectural treasures, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and savor its food. We recommend the following route that allows you to visit the main tourist destinations.
Teruel is located in the Region of Aragon, at the foot of the Sierra de Albarracín. On this mountain there is the spring of Rio Turia. The river Rio Turia ends by entering into the Mediterranean Sea next to the port of Valencia. Teruel is in the middle of Valencia and Zaragoza.
With the train service of Renfe, you can reach Teruel in about two and a half hours either from the main stations of Valencia or Zaragoza. Once you get off the station, you can directly go to the center by walking. Because the center is very close to the train station. First, you can cross the Parque de la Escalinata (Staircase Park) and then the Escalinata del Óvalo (Oval Staircase).
The staircase connects the station with the city center, located on a higher level, and embellishes the entrance to the city. In 1921 the engineer José Toran de la Rad who born in Teruel made The staircase. The staircase incorporates the recurrent architectural styles in the country: Mudéjar, Gothic and Art Nouveau.
Mudéjar Architecture of Aragon
The Mudéjars were those Muslims who chose to remain in Iberian territory despite the Christian reconquest. During the first centuries of Christian rule, these Muslims were allowed to devote themselves to their art, which was referred to as Mudéjar art. UNESCO has recognized some buildings of Aragon’s Mudéjar architecture as a World Heritage Site since 1986. In Teruel, you can visit the first four buildings included in the UNESCO list.
Just in front of the staircase, there is the tower of the El Salvador church. The tower was built in the 14th century and declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1986. You can visit it all year round for the price of € 3. In the morning it opens from 11 am to 2 pm. In the afternoon it opens from 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm. Only in August in the afternoon, it opens from 4 pm to 8 pm. Instead, in the months of November, December and January the tower operates in the afternoon from 4.30 pm to 6.30 pm.
It is not possible to visit the tower on major religious holidays and during the Vaquilla del Ángel festival. The festival is the main city event and takes place from Friday to Monday in the week cross July 10th. Finally, you must pay attention because the tower closes every Monday afternoon during the year except Mondays in August.
The tower stands out with its orange color, and with its symmetrical arches above the Salvador street (calle el Salvador). A little further on, you can turn left into Yagüe de Salas street. At the end of the street, you can find the tower from the church of San Martín. The tower, similar to that of El Salvador, is also included in the UNESCO heritage, but it cannot be visited.
The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Mediavilla
From the San Martín Tower, you can walk along the Lovers street (Calle Amantes). Here you will find the town hall and the Mudéjar tower that stands at the Cathedral Square (plaza de la Catedral). Then you are in front of the Cathedral of Saint Mary of Mediavilla (Catedral de Santa María de Mediavilla) . The cathedral represents a unique set of decorations that include architectural styles accumulated over the construction, which was completed in 1587. The tower, the cathedral ceiling and the lantern tower have been a UNESCO heritage site since 1986.
The church of Santa Maria was built in 1171, at the same time as the birth of the city. The Mudéjar tower was added to the Romanesque church in 1257. Subsequently, the Gothic style was reflected in the elevation of the main nave. Under the nave, the engineers built the beautiful wooden ceiling that is considered as the Sistine Chapel of Mudéjar art.
The church has a square plan in the shape of a cross. Above the crossing (the point where the nave intersects the transept), stands the lantern tower that has an octagonal shape. In the lantern tower, Mudéjar elements are mixed with the Renaissance style. You can climb the tower for one of Teruel’s most iconic views.
In summer time (from June 1st to October 31st) the cathedral opens to visitors in the morning from 11 am to 2 pm and in the afternoon from 4 pm to 8 pm. It is closed on Sunday mornings. In winter time (from November 1 to May 31) the cathedral closes one hour earlier, at 7 pm. Admission costs € 3 and includes a visit to the diocesan museum.
How to visit the Teruel Lovers’ Complex
On the way to the Lovers’ Complex
If you continue walk along Lovers’ street (Calle Amantes), you will find yourself in Plaza Carlos Castell, better known as Plaza del Torico. The Torico is the little Bull, less than a meter long, placed on the high column in the center of the square. The Torico is so loved by the citizens that it is the symbol of the city. The market was held here and the richest arts and crafts guilds of Teruel were based.
In front of the Torico, you can see the narrow Hartzenbusch street that leads directly to the church of San Pedro, where the last tower is a UNESCO heritage site. You will find yourself in front of the entire complex of lovers. The complex owes its name to the story of the lovers of Teruel.
This famous story is narrated in literature, cinema and painting. There are two outstanding versions about the story: the play by the Spanish playwright Juan Eugenio Hartzenbusch and the novella n. 8, contained in the Decameron by the Florentine writer Giovanni Boccaccio.
Visit the Lovers’ Complex
Today, the Foundation of Teruel Lovers (Fundación Amantes de Teruel) run the lovers’ complex and organizes guided tours. A guided tour lasts 1 hour if you also want to climb to the San Pedro tower. Otherwise, the tour lasts 45 minutes.
We highly recommend going up to the San Pedro tower, from which you can enjoy an incredible view of the lantern tower of the cathedral of Santa Maria. The complete visit costs € 10, while the visit without the tower costs € 9. The complex opens every day except 25/12 and 01/01. The schedules are: in the morning from 10 am to 2 pm, and in the afternoon from 4 pm to 8 pm. Please note that on 05/01, 24/12 and 31/12 the complex opens only in the morning.
In addition to the church of San Pedro, gardens and cloister, you can also visit the mausoleum of lovers. The mausoleum was born in 2004 to guard the tombs of the two unfortunate lovers and to tell their legend. The tomb carved in the twentieth century shows that lovers are approaching their hands, the hands are very close without ever touching.
To taste the famous local ham after your visit
After visiting mausoleum of lovers, you can either leave Teruel or continue wandering to going to less known but still very interesting points. In particular, we recommend that you stop to try the famous local ham, Jamón de Teruel, preferably accompanied by the excellent local oil. If you are in a hurry like us, you can ask a sales assistant to prepare a sandwich in a local grocery store or supermarket. Along the train ride, we had plenty of time to enjoy it.
Written by Enrico, Translated by Hua and Photo from Hua